Migrated images in old_crap directory
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@@ -21,7 +21,7 @@ My [Alix.1C](http://www.mini-box.com/Alix-1C-Board-1-LAN-1-MINI-PCI?sc=8&categor
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This board is a 500 MHz AMD Geode with 256 MB RAM onboard; it uses about 5 watts and runs from 12VDC. It has a CompactFlash header onboard, so right now I am running Linux from a 128 MB card.
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[](http://hodapple.com/blag/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/6547.jpg)[](http://hodapple.com/blag/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/6549.jpg)
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[](/wp_old/2008/05/6547.jpg)[](/wp_old/2008/05/6549.jpg)
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**Edirol PCR-M50**
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@@ -31,23 +31,23 @@ Some said they'd taken it apart and cleaned it to fix it. So I figured that woul
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Front cover off, after removing like 50 screws:
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[](http://hodapple.com/blag/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/6553.jpg)[](http://hodapple.com/blag/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/6554.jpg)
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[](/wp_old/2008/05/6553.jpg)[](/wp_old/2008/05/6554.jpg)
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So I started the process of removing keys because I could not see any other way to access the contacts. They grey part on the left in the first picture looks like about the same mechanism as a keyboard or older joystick pad. There are two pads for each key rather than just one, and my guess is that the one nearest the fulcrum is hit slightly sooner than the further one, and the time elapsed between the two hits is used to guess the velocity with which they key was struck.
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Other than that, just a pretty easy-to-understand design. Each key is held up by a tension spring on the opposite side, and keys slide in and out pretty easily once the springs are gone. The only annoying part was all the white grease everywhere that kept getting all over my hands.
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[](http://hodapple.com/blag/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/6555.jpg)[](http://hodapple.com/blag/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/6556.jpg)
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[](/wp_old/2008/05/6555.jpg)[](/wp_old/2008/05/6556.jpg)
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And it's just connected electrically with a ribbon cable, normal 0.1" pitch, like an IDE header.
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[](http://hodapple.com/blag/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/6557.jpg)
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[](/wp_old/2008/05/6557.jpg)
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So I proceeded to remove the first dozen or so keys by pulling out the springs, then white keys and black keys.
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The PCB in the next pictures looks almost black, but it should be more of a dark green. The lines are dust that came between the keys. In any case, these show the rubber(ish) part on top that the keys strike, and the gold PCB contacts beneath them.
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[](http://hodapple.com/blag/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/6562.jpg)[](http://hodapple.com/blag/wp-content/uploads/2008/05/6563.jpg)
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[](/wp_old/2008/05/6562.jpg)[](/wp_old/2008/05/6563.jpg)
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Conveniently, there are four rubber sections (one per octave). Each two gold pads correspond to a key, and the holes between each are where the rubber section is secured.
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